Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: The Just Right Indian Creek Rack - 5.10a - 5.11c: Edit Log


May 30, 2009, 4:00 PM

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Registered: Sep 10, 2005
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The Just Right Indian Creek Rack - 5.10a - 5.11c
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I just got back from Indian Creek (Battle of the Bulge/Broken Tooth walls) and trying out my just-right rack (not too many cams at the crag, not too few).

I am starting a new thread because I realized the problem I am working out is not “the minimum number of cams for 99% of all routes” but rather “the right number of cams for 5.10a – 5.11c routes”

1. This is the range of route difficulty that most people climb at Indian Creek.
2. Almost everything 5.12a or greater is specifically sought out and, as such, the necessary gear can be brought along (specifically finger cracks with the need for lots of small gear).
3. The relatively few long off-widths (Keyhole Flake, SUV, Monster Truck, etc ) are also probably specifically sought out and if more than 3 #5 Friends & 3 #6 Friends are needed, this will be known in advance.

In addition to tape, scissors, helmet, harness, shoes/sox, water bottles:

2 70m ropes (9.8mm plus BD Rope Bucket)
1 set small/medium nuts
1 nut tool/daisy chain/quicklink

7 trad draws
1 4’ trad draw
2 sets anchor draws (1 quickdraw, 1 double locker in each set of anchor draws)
1 20’ webbing

Total cams = 67
1 black Alien
1 blue Alien
1 green Alien
1 0 TCU
1 1 TCU

2 yellow Metolius Fat Cams
2 orange Metolius Fat Cams
1 #0.3 Camalot
2 #0.4 Camalot
3 #0.5 Camalot

4 #0.75 Camalots-green
4 #1 Camalots-red

6 #2 Camalots-yellow
6 #3 Camalots-blue

1 #9 maroon-Fat Cam
1 #4 Friend
5 #4 Camalots-silver

3 #5 Friends-red
3 #6 Friends-green

4 #0.5 Link Cams
4 #0.75 Link Cams
6 #1 Link Cams
5 #2 Link Cams

Brought on the trip but left in the car & taken to the crag as needed:
1 Gri-Gri (someone ALWAYS wants to use a Gri-Gri & didn’t bring their own!)
2 Ascenders/etriers
1 additional 20’ webbing
1 additional quicklink
1 extra nut tool/daisy chain
1 extra cam of each size
#2/3 /9 Fat Cams
#0.5/0.75/1/2/3/4 Camalots
#5/6 Friends
#1/2 Link Cams

?Big Bros? (I have never used them at IC & have never placed them either!)

The ropes/buckets weigh 11# each
The OW cams weigh 6.5#
The rest of the cams weigh 30.5#

This is manageable by 2 people.
It is easily manageable by 3 people
There are still more cams than we have ever used.
This collection doers not lack any cam that we have ever needed.
The Link Cams allow fewer total cams with the same depth of coverage for their range

Take 13 quickdraws if you take a break day at Mill Creek or Rifle.
Any tower climb racks can be assembled from the above.

I will set off on my next trip in September with this rack and let everyone know what other cams/gear I leave off after evaluating the results of this trip.

(This post was edited by rcmoose on May 31, 2009, 8:36 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rcmoose () on May 31, 2009, 8:36 AM

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