Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [redlude97] Putting together a sport "rack": Edit Log


Jul 5, 2009, 3:16 PM

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Re: [redlude97] Putting together a sport "rack"
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redlude97 wrote:
Thanks everyone for the info so far.

1. I already have the ATC. Should I still get the reverso 3 right now or should I just wait until I start multipitching? I figured it would be better to just get used to the reverso now so I'm comfortable feeding and catching on it

I've led multi-pitch for years (mostly trad), and used an ATC for a lot of that time. Nothing wrong with it for any belay situation (although for belaying a hang-dogger there are better options). You have the ATC, use it...the business of the reverso autoblocking for multipitch is more of a concern to a guide/client than to equals going out together. BTW, I own the reverso (1) and the BD Guide, and do use them for most of my I'm not talking against them from ignorance. But there is nothing magic about any belay device being for single pitch vs. multipitch.

In reply to:
3. TR Anchor: Is a quad the best TR anchor option? When I've been out with partner and we've set up TR's for multiple people off of bolts, he's always just used a pair of slings with 4 lockers. He told me the lockers at the top aren't absolutely necessary though and the ones on the rope end were much more important. In addition, those longer slings with the lockers could be used just in case on the way up I needed additional longer quickdraws and just close the lockers after clipping into the rope. I prefer to not use a sliding x based on what I've read, and since opposing quickdraws for a TR anchor is generally accepted as safe, is having a dedicated quad anchor setup prebuilt necessary?

The quad is a great anchor option for sport anchors. When pre-tied, it is quick to set up and inspires confidence. It handles anchors placed at different heights (the two bolts not in the same horizontal line) better than the double quickdraw method.
The pair of slings, one to each bold, two OPPOSED biners at the rope is quite accepted.
So, no, having the prebuilt quad is not necessary. I like it, like to use it, and recommend it if the route is not straight up (or if you're going to do several routes off of those anchors). But, I'm perfectly happy to climb on 2 good bolts, 2 slings, and four biners (arranged in a reasonable fashion).

(This post was edited by bill413 on Jul 5, 2009, 3:17 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bill413 () on Jul 5, 2009, 3:17 PM

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