Forums: Community: The Ladies' Room: Re: [walldancer] how to keep up, no pun...: Edit Log


Jul 14, 2009, 1:40 PM

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Registered: Jun 24, 2008
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Re: [walldancer] how to keep up, no pun...
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I can understand this question.

I am a shorty (5'1) and when I climb with very good partners who are also tall I cannot improve by watching them and their always wanting to get on hard routes intimidates me and worries me that I'm holding them back when I want to get on easier routes.

The solution which worked for me was to start going to the gym by myself. Luckily there were a couple of gyms nearby with very good bouldering and every time I'd go I'd try to work harder and harder problems little by little.

Once I was able to see an improvement by doing just bouldering (i.e. I could see that now I could do problems that I couldn't do before or equivalently I was now warming up on harder problems) I got on the autobelays to build up stamina.

Guess what happened?

Now (after about 4 months of doing this) I climb at almost the same level as my erstwhile belayer who climbed 2 grades higher than me when I started the bouldering by myself....AND he's 5'10, heh! :D.

Oh, and practice leading. Don't ever toprope. That helped me loads. No excuses for toprope unless it is a really attractive route that you want to just try for fun and is at least 2 or 3 grades higher than you typically climb. When you train at the gym I think proportion of lead to toprope should be something like 95% to 5%.

Oh, the other toprope excuse is when you playfully speed climb routes 2 grades slower than you and you race your belayer.

So in summary: boulder lots, toprope seldom, lead always. Good luck!

(This post was edited by blueshrimp on Jul 14, 2009, 1:43 PM)

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Post edited by blueshrimp () on Jul 14, 2009, 1:43 PM

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