Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [coolcat83] Descent from Betty: Edit Log

Partner rgold

Aug 5, 2009, 2:06 PM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804

Re: [coolcat83] Descent from Betty
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Thousands of people who have never climbed before have, over a period of probably fifty years before rap stations became really popular, come down the Uberfall. If you've got someone who isn't able to do that, he or she shouldn't be trad climbing at all in my opinion. It isn't for everyone, after all.

Still, you could belay them down. There is also a safe way to spot the worst moments of the descent (if you go the right way).

What you shouldn't do is add any slings to trees anywhere.

There are bolts at the top of Pas de Deux/City Lights that are accessible by just walking from the top, but you have to drop down at one point so, of course, you have to know where that is. Probably the best way is to climb Pas de Deux or City Lights, and then, at the top bolts, walk a few feet (climber's) left on the ledge and go up a few feet to the top to scope out what the place looks like.

When coming from the top to the bolts, the traverse back right on the ledge is very exposed. If your friend can't stomach the Uberfall, he ain't gonna be up for this unless you give him a belay.

Finally, there is a fair amount of loose rock on the ledge, and usually many parties underneath, so extreme caution and sensitivity are called for---you or your ropes absolutely must not knock any of that stuff off, and if you aren't 100% positive you and your apparently pretty incompetent partner can manage that, you must find another way down.

Edit: I also agree with TB that rapping down over and on top of ascending parties is rude and dangerous. This applies to the rappel I described too, which will put you on top of folks starting up City Lights. So really---take the Uberfall, with a belay if necessary. Perhaps your day should begin with a scramble up and then down the Uberfall so the first experience won't be descending.

(This post was edited by rgold on Aug 5, 2009, 2:14 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on Aug 5, 2009, 2:14 PM

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