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Re: [uni_jim] Hex Users! How hard do you climb?:
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the_climber
Aug 14, 2009, 4:36 PM
Views: 6829
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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I find people always find it hard to really figure out this question. Did you place them or just rack them? could you have used a cam? would you have been able to protect it better if you had brought and used hexes? all the other what if's?
It's always a question and what protection a climb affords, what types of features the rock has, and so on.
My hardest lead with hexes (outside of aiding) would be about 5.9/10a depending on who you asked... mind you that was on new ground cleaning out placements along the way and with a good sized rack with everything from Brassies, pins, tricams, hexes, to a #3 camalot. That particular pitch had a number of key placements (read only oppertunity in that section) that only afforded hexes. The placements were bomber where it would have been too shallow for a cam. I think the only cams I placed on the pitch were on easy ground at the top of the pitch. Everything else was hexes tricams, pins, and nuts. It really comes down to using th eright tools a the right time.
Could I have placed more cams, sure but not safely. Cams skate out of muddy cracks that were just cleaned out, whereas a hex or tricam (placed properly in the given situation) holds better.
It all cames down to the rock, and the skills of the climber. Hexes and tricams are easy to learn, but few climbers truely become proficient at them these days.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Aug 14, 2009, 4:40 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by the_climber
() on Aug 14, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Post edited by the_climber
() on Aug 14, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Post edited by the_climber
() on Aug 14, 2009, 4:40 PM
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