Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log




gblauer
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Sep 13, 2009, 7:39 PM

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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior
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A milestone for me!

I can go to my grave happy. I finally lead my first gunks 5.9!!! Ok, I know I am not a real Gunks 9 climber, but, it's a start right?

So, we arrived at the gunks on Friday in a fairly intense rain storm. Saturday dawned dark and gray. Everything was really wet. As the day progressed, the clouds persisted and the crag stayed pretty wet. We were planning to do some climbing at around 3PM, but, as soon as we started out the door it started to sprinkle. Plans dashed, we gave up on Saturday climbing. Instead we focused on errands and make a great dinner for some of our gunks friends.

Sunday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies, sun, 75+ degrees. It actually got HOT. I warmed up on Bunny (first time it has been open all year, there is usually a jam up on Bunny) and felt really great clearing the roof. After finishing Bunny, I decided it was time to lead red Cabbage. Enough waffling, it was time to man up and do it. I knew that if I failed, I could always get my gear. So, up I went. I did my first 9, cool, calm and collected. I felt great, it felt wonderful to make the moves unencumbered by a top rope. I pulled the crux, turned the arete on to the face and finished up the climb. So much fun and such a sense of accomplishement.

Ok, I went from a sublime HIGH to an extreme (whiny) low. We decided to climb proctoscope (5.9+) to Feast of Fools (10a) to the 2nd pitch of Nurses Aid (10a MA). P1 and P2 go down like butter, but, P2 of Nurses Aid scares the hell out of me. It's all good to the traverse. But, man, that traverse is uber scary for a shorty. I whined and debated and whined some more. I just couldn't force myself to step out into the abyss. Finally, I just manned up and made the moves past the slopery horizontal on the positive edge around the corner. It's really hard to get started (the horzontal under the roof is really slopery and you have to reach really far to get to the good edges). and once you get started, you have to move. There are hands only, no feet. That said, I am short enough that I could get my feet on the wall and in a frog position scrunch along the crack. It wasn't easy and it was hard pulling the gear. My sox foot plus partner campused much of the traverse. As asecond, if you fall on the roof, you are not getting back on, there is nothing but air underneath you. Sure glad I didn't fall!


(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 13, 2009, 7:41 PM)



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Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Sep 13, 2009, 7:41 PM


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