Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [kobaz] Gri Gri failures: Edit Log




healyje


Sep 21, 2009, 1:09 AM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [kobaz] Gri Gri failures
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Pretty much just the existence of the term "autolock" is the problem. Product documentation and design specifics seem unable to conquer this myth. And that shouldn't be a surprise given its locking capability has been a real behind-the-scenes driver of sport climbing since its introduction. It is inherently a functionally 'gray' device by design - locking reliably, but autolocking only incidentally. The problem is it does autolock a high enough percentage of the time that, for all practical purposes, that has become the enduring mass perception of its functionality.

And in reality, the principal use of the device, and the reason for its overwhelming popularity isn't belaying, but rather hanging, and hanging in a way that shifts responsibility for 'locking-off' from the belayer to the device. Shift that locking-off responisibility often enough and, humans being human, it should come as no surprise that most people expect the device to also initiate that locking, and therein lies the sad tale of the numerous edge cases we read about where it doesn't, thereby catching the 'belayer' by surprise. When using a grigri you have to realize that only you are responsible for intitiating locking - you're the belayer, not a belay attendant.

In some ways it's a patterned behavior/addiction from my perspective and the moral is: grigris work fine, just don't expect them to do 100% of your job even 1% of the time.


(This post was edited by healyje on Sep 22, 2009, 12:56 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:11 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:12 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:14 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:15 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:23 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:27 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 1:27 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 9:08 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 9:08 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 21, 2009, 11:37 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Sep 22, 2009, 12:56 AM


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