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Re: [jt512] An anchor to analyze:
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king_rat
Nov 12, 2009, 9:05 AM
Views: 8471
Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365
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I haven’t read through he rest of the thread so most of this has already been mentioned. 1. The pieces placed look Ok but can’t really see them. 2. The two biners clipped to the rope are not opposite or opposed. 3. The use of quick draws means that the anchor is not equalised particularly the top two. 4. use of quickdraws means that any change of direction of the load will load different legs of the anchor. 5. The top biner looks like it could push against the rock and the gate could be forced open. 6. The second quickdraw on the chain clipped to the top peace of gear is not directly clipped in to the quickdraw leading to the rope, but is clipped to the other leg of the anchor. 7. I don’t like metal on metal(possibility of the biners twisting open. I wouldn't want to climb on it, adn if i did I certanly would not want to be swinging round while working a route. I certainly would not belay my kids on it.
(This post was edited by king_rat on Nov 12, 2009, 10:47 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by king_rat
() on Nov 12, 2009, 10:47 AM
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Post edited by king_rat
() on Nov 12, 2009, 10:47 AM
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