Forums: Climbing Information: Climbing History & Trivia: Re: [LostinMaine] The RGold scoop?: Edit Log




clintcummins


Nov 21, 2009, 6:52 PM

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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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Re: [LostinMaine] The RGold scoop?
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I have Climbing #123 (12/90-1/91) on my shelf. The article is [Classic] The Great Dihedral, by Richard Goldstone.
Here are a few highlights:

Let me take you back 14 years to a time when a hexcentric was the most sophisticated camming device in existence and climbers still proclaimed an ascent accomplished without pitons. ...
... The Great Dihedral ... faces right.... Entry into it is blocked by by a cave-like overhang, a dark and nasty nostril waiting to inhale unsuspecting leaders, baggy natural-fiber clothing and all.
On June 13, 1976, Ivan Rezucha and I stared up at the gigantic menace and nervously added some extra Stoppers to our rack, reasoning that we could always aid our way around the overhang and try to climb the rest of the dihedral free. Were careful to bring a nut tool for the leader so that he could clean dirt from the cracks and, we hoped, discover nut placements underneath. ...
[Ivan led p1 past] a nasty section of cracked posts and pillars. ... A hush fell over the assembled multitudes ... (... Ivan and I were the only climbers on the cliff.)
[Rich started up p2] Suddenly, the realization dawned on me that I was about to have a fiasco. I was jammed up to the waist into a bottomless hole barely large enough at the top to allow my head to move. It was dark and wet, and my glasses turned instantly opaque with fog. ... My hands were soaked, my rack pinned between my side and the rock. ... A major tug-of-war with the pinned rack ensued, punctuated by heaves, bumps, grinds, and continuous expletives as every little thing that could go wrong, did. Finally, after trying a veritable Kama Sutra of different positions, I had the right-sized nut in my drenched hand. I found I could reach up and around to the outside of the dihedral and, squinting through the crack, watch from the inside as I placed the nut into it.
It was time to leave the hole for the outside world. ... I underclung the bottom edge of the nostril to the base of the dihedral, torqued my fingers in the crack that had formerly been the window of my prison, and launched myself upwards for a long stretch of what turned out to be delightful and deceptively moderate stemming. Ivan, although apprehensive after my antics, followed the 5.9 moves without difficulty, and another short pitch put us at the top of the dihedral.
Here ... We would either need a bolt, or have to mount a major unprotected effort. We had neither a bolt kit nor the courage, so we followed the FM-Body Snatcher rising traverse to a petrifyingly wet and slimy 5.8 finish. Later, the direct finish fell to a team that had the foresight to bring a bolt kit.
About eight years later, after an ascent of The Snatch, I traversed over to finish up on this top pitch to the Great Dihedral. ... [after some tricky moves] I was trapped like an utter beginner ... [I stood up erect] and the next thing I knew, I reached the bolt [and soon the top]

(This post was edited by clintcummins on Nov 21, 2009, 6:56 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by clintcummins () on Nov 21, 2009, 6:56 PM


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