Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice: Re: [kaizen] Ice Gear: Screws and biners: Edit Log


Mar 10, 2010, 7:53 AM

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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
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Re: [kaizen] Ice Gear: Screws and biners
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kaizen wrote:
I really like the BD Express as many others have said, with 4 screamers, hot wire biners, and I don't use a screw gate locker.

Besides 1 22cm for making a v thread, you should only need 16s, and an emergency shorty, since you're just starting out. 22s and 19s offer no more security than a 16, so your carrying extra weight, spending extra dollars and time by loading up on long screws.

Have fun, be safe.

Be very carefull giving advice like that! It is not correct in all situations, and VERY dependent on ice conditions.

Lacy, poor quality ice, snice (halfway between snow and ice), ice with multiple oinon skins, mushroomed ice, caulifloured ice... these are all conditions where the benefits of long screws is worth their weight in gold. In these types of conditions, they DO hold better.

On average condition ice, plastic ice, well consolidated ice (ie. it was once lacy new ice, and has since filled in with minimal air pockets); in these conditions then Yes, 16's have just as much holding power than 22's. However, these are not always the conditions you find. Sure, you can dig for placements, but I've been in enough situations that after digging a foot to a foot and a half in on a vertical pillar only to get a marginal 22cm screw... It is best to have a few of them on the rack.

(This post was edited by the_climber on Mar 10, 2010, 7:58 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by the_climber () on Mar 10, 2010, 7:58 AM

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