Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [bigjonnyc] A Look at Load Distributing and Load Sharing Anchor Systems.: Edit Log

Partner cracklover

Mar 23, 2010, 11:35 AM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [bigjonnyc] A Look at Load Distributing and Load Sharing Anchor Systems.
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bigjonnyc wrote:
cracklover wrote:
rightarmbad wrote:
They stuffed up with the twin sliding X, of course the centre anchor is going to see twice the load, it's connected to both systems.
The ideal could never be what they postulated.

I'm not at all clear on why this should be. A simple diagram (ignoring for the moment the force multiplication through angles, and any friction/binding) suggests that the forces should look like this:

What are you seeing that I'm missing?


Somehow your diagram is messed up. With a pull of X>0 on the bottom, this system will not remain static. Both the center and right anchors in your diagrams have uneven pulls from opposite sides of the webbing running through them. In a physical context this means acceleration, or one side of the anchor extending and the other contracting.

That's not necessarily an problem - a standard cordelette will have differing tension in every arm. It simply means that there is uneven stress on the anchor points.

But upon further reflection, there *is* an issue with my diagram above: assuming no friction, the tension in every strand should be equal.

This is now what the forces look like they should be. So they look to me like (friction etc aside) they should be equal on each strand.

Edited to add pic ^^^


(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 23, 2010, 12:16 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Mar 23, 2010, 12:16 PM

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