whipper
Mar 25, 2010, 6:26 PM
Views: 10012
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
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IsayAutumn wrote: jt512 wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: jt512 wrote: johnwesely wrote: That is why it is crucial to practice releasing an auto block belay device on the ground when nothing is at stake. Or not use it in "guide mode" in the first place without a really good reason, especially when you might have to lower the climber. Since there is almost always the possibility that you'll have to lower the climber, it stands to reason that you should almost never use the device in this configuration. Jay Or you could learn how to do it correctly and safely. Guide mode offers a lot of advantages. I can't think of anything you can do in "guide mode" that you can't with a munter hitch, and with a munter hitch, you can actually lower the climber. I suspect that most people belaying in "guide mode" are on more of an ego trip, than anything. Jay Easy to belay your second while drinking, taking photos, changing clothes, etc. Also easy to belay two seconds at the same time. You didn't think very hard, Jay. As for the ego trip, that's quite a leap. Speak for yourself.
I have never had a hard time doing any of that while belaying with any device, really, you cant top rope belay and DRINK?
Also if it is a top rope situation, shouldn't you be taking up rope instead of doing all this other stuff you feel the need to do. I really cant believe that I am agreeing with Jay on something, but hey, he cant be wrong all the time. I have climbed a ton of alpine, and have never felt the need for these, plus if you are really alpine climbing and climbing fast, I dont want you to be dicking with the belay when I get to your station, I want to grab gear and climb past without going off of belay. Tie in with the rope to 2 good pieces, put me one belay, redirect the belay and go!
(This post was edited by whipper on Mar 25, 2010, 6:39 PM)
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