Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [thechef] Slinging Hooks: Edit Log




the_climber


Apr 3, 2010, 9:20 AM

Views: 7200

Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [thechef] Slinging Hooks
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  

If you're looking to try and use them for pro on free routes, Sling them with webbing. It's more flexible and will position the hook closer to the rock.

As for the point of using hooks for Pro... It's a "nothing else" option. A duck tape hook on a hooked edge serves little more than a psychological lightening of the rack you are carrying. If you can find a pocket too small for a tricam, or a bottomed out crack which flairs inward, or a similar feature which you can lock the hook into you might have a chance of having a marginal piece of pro... use a screamer.

I spend a fair bit of time both aiding and on new ground, I always carry a few hooks when I'm on that kind of climb. Have I used hooks for Pro? Sure, lots of times! That said, they are not as comforting or confidence inspiring are one might think. They are typically more useful as a quick point of aid, something to rest on while cleaning off a section, hanging on while drilling, aiding (durrrrrrr). You'll find a rare occasion where they are the only piece for that one section and it's a perfect fit. In general treat them like a micro nut placement at best (unless it's perfect).

Healyje is the one you really should be talking to about using hooks for free climbing pro, he uses them that way likely more than anyone on here.


Oh, and you're gonna die.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Apr 4, 2010, 10:03 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by the_climber () on Apr 3, 2010, 9:22 AM
Post edited by the_climber () on Apr 3, 2010, 9:22 AM
Post edited by the_climber () on Apr 3, 2010, 9:23 AM
Post edited by the_climber () on Apr 4, 2010, 10:03 AM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$35.96 (10% off)
$10.76 (10% off)
$49.46 (10% off)