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Re: [jt512] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?:
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USnavy
Apr 25, 2010, 3:33 PM
Views: 12096
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: The double belay loops are not for safety, they are for convince on aid climbs and big walls. I have two PAS’s for a couple of reasons. The first reason, I need two when aid climbing. Having two is part of basic aid climbing technique (at least it is how I do it). You need one attached to each aider incase you fall, that way you don’t loose your aiders. Also it’s not a good idea to be hanging 2,000 feet off the ground on a big wall suspended by a single PAS with a single carabiner. If that one bolt pulls you’re done for. If your leader takes a big fall you’re going to get pulled up to the limit of the reach of your daisy (i.e. the daisy will be stopping you from being pulled any higher). It’s possible for your biner to fail if this happens as the biner can get wedged in the hanger and the hanger can rip through the gate. It’s a bit hard to visualize but trust me it’s possible. We'll trust you about as much as we ever do when you talk about aspects of climbing you know nothing about. Jay Your right, you caught me. The double belay loops are not for convince, I made that up. Hanging 2k feet off the ground off a single point of failure system is actually a great idea. Using two daisy chains in aid climbing is completely unheard of. When ascending a fixed line its cool to only be tied into one ascender with one PAS and nothing else. I am glad you have so much experience in aid and big wall techniques that you can set me in my place. No I am not an aid expert but I know the basics. But it doesn’t even matter as none of this has anything to do with aid. The advantages of two belay loops and two PAS's extend beyond just aid climbing.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 25, 2010, 3:46 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Apr 25, 2010, 3:34 PM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Apr 25, 2010, 3:39 PM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Apr 25, 2010, 3:41 PM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Apr 25, 2010, 3:43 PM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Apr 25, 2010, 3:46 PM
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