Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [jt512] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?: Edit Log




USnavy


Apr 25, 2010, 8:33 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2661

Re: [jt512] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?
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jt512 wrote:
USnavy wrote:
The double belay loops are not for safety, they are for convince on aid climbs and big walls. I have two PASís for a couple of reasons. The first reason, I need two when aid climbing. Having two is part of basic aid climbing technique (at least it is how I do it). You need one attached to each aider incase you fall, that way you donít loose your aiders. Also itís not a good idea to be hanging 2,000 feet off the ground on a big wall suspended by a single PAS with a single carabiner. If that one bolt pulls youíre done for. If your leader takes a big fall youíre going to get pulled up to the limit of the reach of your daisy (i.e. the daisy will be stopping you from being pulled any higher). Itís possible for your biner to fail if this happens as the biner can get wedged in the hanger and the hanger can rip through the gate. Itís a bit hard to visualize but trust me itís possible.

We'll trust you about as much as we ever do when you talk about aspects of climbing you know nothing about.

Jay

Your right, you caught me. The double belay loops are not for convince, I made that up. Hanging 2k feet off the ground off a single point of failure system is actually a great idea. Using two daisy chains in aid climbing is completely unheard of. When ascending a fixed line its cool to only be tied into one ascender with one PAS and nothing else. I am glad you have so much experience in aid and big wall techniques that you can set me in my place.

No I am not an aid expert but I know the basics. But it doesnít even matter as none of this has anything to do with aid. The advantages of two belay loops and two PAS's extend beyond just aid climbing.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 25, 2010, 8:46 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:34 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:39 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:41 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:43 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:46 AM


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