Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [curt] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log




sethg


May 2, 2010, 6:38 AM

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Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 134

Re: [curt] Weekend Warrior
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I don't post much here on rc.com, but I want to chime in to say that to see that Gail is out there climbing hard despite the toe problems is a total inspiration to me. I broke my ankle last October on Insuhlation, and although I am more or less completely recovered (the ankle still gets stiff and sore, at random times), I'm still a great deal less fit than I was before the accident and I am slowly working my way back to the level I reached last year. I am determined to get there, though, and Gail's progress reminds me that it is possible!

My own weekend warrior story, from yesterday:

I went up to the Gunks with the idea that I'd just try to get more comfortable again with 5.6s and 5.7s, not try to push too hard, focus on being healthy. It was only my second time outside this season; during my first outing in March I thought 5.6s were challenging, and I felt like my head wasn't quite right. I was very tentative.

I had it in mind yesterday that maybe we'd try to do Bloody Mary. I thought this would be good for me because it is a 5.7 I haven't done, and it used to be rated 5.6 so it can't be that bad. And the second (5.6) pitch sounded really cool. The first two pitches were great. I loved the first pitch, and the second pitch was even better. Really a thrilling overhanging traverse after the first roof, with really good foot and handholds. I can't think of another 5.6 in the Gunks where you have to place gear-- at least a couple pieces if you're thinking of yourself AND your second-- in such an overhanging position. (Maybe the second pitch of Bold-ville, but that one isn't as overhanging.) And it still seems fair at 5.6. Really nice moves, and it's all there. Unfortunately the third pitch sucked (dirty, run-out, eventually a bushwhack).

We rapped down the Arch/Ribs bolts, and then when we got back to our stuff I realized that despite how crowded it was in the Trapps, Drunkard's Delight and Morning After were open. So I thought we should jump on one of them. Only problem is both have first pitches rated 5.8-, and both feature scary thin face climbing right off the deck with scant pro. Looking at them, though, I felt like I could do Drunkard's. I was feeling good, 5.7 had felt totally comfy, like an easy chair. Williams says "small cam protects bouldery start," and I thought I could see where he meant this small cam to go. I also thought I spied another placement for a similar cam at around the same height to the left. So I started up, made two moves, and then placed one cam (red C3) about 8-10 feet up. Then I made a delicate move to the right to get into the business of the pitch. While I was still on a good foothold, I could just barely lean over to get my tiny purple Metolius 4CU into the spot where I think Williams wants you to put a cam. I got it in and it seemed like it was decent. Then I committed to the low crux of the route. I believe I got the correct smeary footholds and the proper slopey handholds, and I was then able to get my right foot onto the next good hold and start to rock up to a stance. I ALMOST made it. I'm pretty sure my approach was sound. But then I fell. And both cams held, my partner Liz was not lifted off her feet, and I was kept off the deck by my two good micro cams with about two feet to spare. But damn it all, somehow in the fall I hit my right ankle (the same fucking ankle I broke last fall), and it seemed like it could be very slightly sprained. It was immediately sore.

But I could still climb on the ankle, it seemed, and I almost got the crux the first time, so I started up again. But I was more tentative the second time, and I didn't feel I had it when I started the move, so I had Liz take and then lower me. And then I started up a third time. But before I committed to the hard move I suddenly thought, out loud, "why am I doing this?" Risking repeated lead falls ten feet off the ground, protected by micro cams, on a known ankle-breaker of a route. Such idiocy. This was not the plan. Just then two guys walked up who were hoping to climb the route, so I told them to have at it and asked them to retrieve my gear, which they did.

So after a brief regrouping we went and climed Maria. Such a great route. And my partner Liz got her first 5.6 lead (5.6+!) by doing the second pitch. My bum ankle stiffened and swelled a bit while I waited to follow the second pitch, but I still led the third pitch anyway, and it was no problem.

On the plus side I felt much more like myself climbing today than I did in March. And this morning the ankle is already a little better; I hope it will be back to its prior slightly damaged state in a couple days.


(This post was edited by sethg on May 2, 2010, 7:03 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sethg () on May 2, 2010, 7:03 AM


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