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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Seconding: Lower outs: Lower out with accenders on or off the rope?:
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USnavy
May 6, 2010, 11:23 AM
Views: 3797
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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When lowering out / off a fixed piece is it a good idea to remain tied into the rope with the ascenders or should one only be tied in with a biner and a figure eight on a bite (and the end of the rope of course)? Let me clarify. Step 1: You continue ascending your leader's rope cleaning the pro until you reach the fixed piece the leader used for a pendulum / tension traverse. 2. You see that you have to lower out / down off the fixed piece about 20 feet. 3. You clip straight into the fixed piece that you’re going to lower out / down off. 4. You tie a figure eight on a bite and clip it to your belay loop for a back up well passing the ascenders over the fixed piece just like you always do when ascending. 5. (here is where the question comes in) You take the ascenders off the rope and either: a. pass the ascenders around the piece just like you always do when cleaning and clip them back to the rope. b. remove both ascenders all together. 6. You thread the rope through the fixed piece. 7. You lower off the fixed piece until your weight is supported by the leader’s rope once again. 8. You pull the bite of rope you used to lowered out on and continue ascending. Normally when cleaning pieces you would chose option a. However if you kept the ascenders on the rope and the fixed piece pulled well lowering out you would take a nice whipper onto the ascenders and probably chop your rope, sending you to your maker. So do you normally just remain tied in with a figure eight on a bite (and of course the end of the rope) and wait to reattach the ascenders to the rope until you’re completely finished with the lower out? Taking a whipper on a figure eight attached to your harness with a biner sounds rather sketchy but I guess taking one on an ascender is much worse.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 6, 2010, 11:25 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by USnavy
() on May 6, 2010, 11:23 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on May 6, 2010, 11:24 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on May 6, 2010, 11:25 AM
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