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johnwesely


May 7, 2010, 9:44 AM

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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior
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Cross posted from the PCI

We set off at about 9:30 to head for the Lost Wall with My friend Drew, his girlfriend Danya, my girlfriend Tatum, and myself. The ride goes fine. I don't have an inkling of fear and I am really looking forward to the day ahead. The company ensures that we will be staying on easy routes, but that was perfectly ok with me. We get to the wall and I get ready to lead Steggo (5.6 PG 13). I climb up about fifteen feet and place my first piece, a small steel nut, and I am shaking. I am on super easy climbing, feet on ledges, and I am shaking. Every possible bad situation goes running through my head. I climb another 15 feet and place a blue TCU. This time, with my feet on even better ledges, I shake once again. I imagine my friends having to watch me plummet to the ground. It is almost too much to bare. I climb another 10 feet set a micro nut and a sideways stopper. I mantle on a ledge and place a yellow tcu about 4 feet above the last piece. I am gripped with fear. This 5.6 feels like an X rated 5.12. The gear is all solid but I can't seem to shake the fear no matter how hard I try. I climb another fifteen feet and arrive at the base of a vertical seam. It looks difficult. I place a bomber .75, a truck grey DMM Peenut, and a yellow stopper. Every piece of gear was bomber, but I couldn't even bring my self to trust all three together. I was shaking hard again, but I knew I had to go for it. The finishing moves up the seam actually turned out to be the easiest moves on the route somehow, and I built an anchor off this massive tree. I lower, exhausted. My girlfriend tells me I looked scared, I tell her I was. My friends all top rope the route and Drew takes down the anchor. A spider is attacking a silkworm dangling from a tree. I take a picture with my new film camera. Hopefully, it will turn out.



We move on to the next climb, Guzzler (5.8). It is a beautiful crack that varies from fists to ringlocks. It was the route that we came to lost wall to climb as my crack technique could use some work. I gear up and set off. The route is really fun. I sew it up with gear, but this time I am not so scared. Uncharacteristically nervous, yes, but not scared. The crux comes with pulling a roof into a finger crack. The first jam is a super solid finger lock followed by an index and middle finger tips lock. I frantically search for the next hold and pitch off. I get back on and find a semi hidden hold and finish the route. Drew climbs it once on toprope, flailing a bunch on the upper crux but eventually getting to the top. It is Danya's turn next. She has never climber before, but she is rearing to go. She cruises through the opening hand jam bulge then saunters up the rest of the crack to the base of the roof. At this point she is not that confident, but she gives it a go. She throws a knee bar under the roof and attempts the moves. She falls. She tries again and falls. She is getting rather frustrated and wants Drew to let her down. He says he will if she tries one more time. She tries and makes it, rather impressive for a first times, and she comes down smiling even though she is covered in blood. Tough chick. I climb Guzzler again on top rope so I cam work on my crack technique and take down the the anchor. The scramble down was quite uneventful.

We take a break for lunch, and I go to take pictures of this gorgeous waterfall. It free falls fifty feet and behind it is this deep and tall cave. If fixed gear was allowed, the most classic sport climb ever would climb up the arch behind the water fall. It is bright day but partly cloudy. My goal was to take a picture with a super fast shutter speed in order to freeze the waterfall. I had enough light for 1/2000 of a second, but then a cloud came over head. Drats, I was so close. I was about to give up when the cloud moved, exposing the sun once again. I could not get the 2000 shutter speed again, but I did get a shot with 1000 and two with 750. Hopefully they will come out pretty cool. I go back to Guzzler and pack up my gear.



Our next objective is Booze and Broads, a perfect 5.9 hands corner capped by a massive roof. I am really excited about this climb. We cross the river and make our way to the climb. On the way, we pass the prehistoric wall, home of 5 amazing looking 5.11+ to b 5.12 climbs. If I ever go back to lost wall, it will be to get on those. We trek on but I can tell my team is weary. I forgot to say that it was 90 degrees and humid outside, hardly ideal weather for hiking or climbing. We reach Didn't Make it to Sunset (5.8), and decide to climb it and call it a day. DMitS follows a hands to fingers crack to a small roof followed by crimpy face climbing to the top. I start climbing, placing a 1 and 2 Camalot almost on top of each other. The crack was disgusting, wet and dirty, and I was feeling pretty insecure. I make a few moves into finger jams and set an Orange TCU about 6 feet above my last piece. I am shaking like a madman, overcome with completely irrational fear. I make it to the base of the roof and see a perfect spot for a 2 Camalot and feel like an idiot for placing it one foot from another piece. I do find a small slot for a blue tcu though, so my mind is somewhat at ease. I pull the roof on crimps, and that ease immediately disappears. I am freaking out. I place a 4 inch metolious cam in the adjacent wide crack, and keep moving. After a few face moves I place a 00 cam and finish the route. No one else wants to climb it so I rap off the fixed cord. I am pretty exhausted. We head home, and everyone falls asleep in the car except for me.

My lead head is about a hundredth of what it was before Josh's death, but I think I made a lot a progress yesterday because I never felt as bad on the other climbs as I did on the first. Anyways, I hope that wasn't to long. I should have broken it up into parts for the spirit of PCI. Thanks for reading.


(This post was edited by johnwesely on May 8, 2010, 8:11 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by johnwesely () on May 8, 2010, 8:11 AM


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