Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [mattmaddaloni] The Anticam: Edit Log


May 10, 2010, 7:28 PM

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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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Re: [mattmaddaloni] The Anticam
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Where would one have to use an Anticam?

1) In the first episode I discover a huge flake on the Chief in Squamish, BC. This flake begins about 1 inch in thickness and as it sweeps from left to right it gains mass until it is about 20 inches thick. This 80 foot pitch of rock has never been climbed, either on aid or free. A number 2 camalot placed behind it would expand the flake until the cam popped out (with less than body weight) or the flake itself breaks off. Using Anticams allows a climber to safely traverse the pitch free. Such a classic line deserves to be done without bolts and the climbing is incredible and different from other routes.

2) Two pitches climbed here in Squamish that were bolted flakes but were done without using the Anticam.

3) I have found a huge roof crack. Several huge flakes stick out of the crack, they are so big that it would be brutal to squeeze up into the recesses and place cams, instead a first ascentionist would bolt the outside of the 5.12+ layback flakes. Instead I want to climb it first minimizing bolts and using the Anticam. This is an exciting opportunity and it is amazing that two great projects have presented themselves in only a month of having a first working prototype.

It takes imagination to find opportunities to do new things. I also think having great stoke and energy in life is a hard thing to find with so many stresses in our lives. Please do not wreck the stoke and post negative remarks on this thread. Thank you.

(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 11, 2010, 11:32 AM)
Attachments: The-Flake.jpg (78.5 KB)

Edit Log:
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 10, 2010, 7:29 PM
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 10, 2010, 7:37 PM
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 11, 2010, 11:32 AM

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