Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [camhead] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones?: Edit Log

Partner cracklover

May 13, 2010, 9:39 AM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [camhead] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones?
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camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
angry wrote:
Does a long clean fall on good gear mean R?

Seems to. But isn't it also quite small gear? And if you're on the arete, wouldn't it be hard to see into the crack, making an onsight extremely difficult?

Sure, pink-pointing it might be no big deal. Or even rehearsing it and then placing the exact gear right where you have the ticks to show it goes. But I think trad routes should be rated for the onsight.


I'd be willing to bet that

-everyone who has sent Air Swedin TR previewed it, since it's so easy to do so

I wouldn't be so sure. Toproping Gaia is easy too, a climb that is surely harder, more insecure, and has more dangerous fall potential. And yet people try to OS or flash that.


(This post was edited by cracklover on May 13, 2010, 9:41 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on May 13, 2010, 9:41 AM

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