Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [TheProducer] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender: Edit Log




dugl33


May 26, 2010, 10:36 AM

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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [TheProducer] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender
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TheProducer wrote:
Hey guys i know theres forums about top rope soloing but no one on those could answer anything so heres my question:

Do you think this would work as a safe good method of top rope soloing?

Method:
walk up to anchors set a normal anchor as if top roping normally, then instead of running the ropes through the master point anchor, tye off a figure 8 knot on a bight of the rope, throw the rope down, rappel down using a normaly atc, make the rope straight over the route, make the rope tight by tying it off or by using a pack, then clipping a right handed Petzl Ascension Ascender on the rope and tying it off to my belay loop, jumaring that up and climbing up the route, jumaring the ascender up and then climbing up, and repeat until getting to the anchors. then rappel again and start over.

now to me this sounds like a solid way to climb solo top ropeing what do you think?

I could see how this could work but a mini-traxion, croll, or soloist type device would be better.

What's awkward with a normal handled ascender is it will ride fairly high and ideally you want the device as close to your waist as possible. With a croll or mini-traxion many people use a chest sling or chest harness to hold the device up and inline -- which negates a fair amount of the "drop" onto the device.

Assuming a solid anchor your risks include the ascender twisting off the rope, cutting through the rope, and cam breakage. Also forces will increase the closer you get to the anchor as less rope will be available to stretch. You will also want to exercise caution transitioning from climbing to rapping, obviously.

Whatever you do use the other fixed rope strand to tie back up knots. Also, don't bottom anchor the primary rope to make it tight, just hang some shoes or water bottle or something.

My .02, for what its worth.

(edit to add: properly done your set-up will self feed without slack developing as you climb, especially once there is a little rope weight below the device. You may need to "help" the feed a bit in the beginning or on really low angle stuff, but you shouldn't need to constantly slide the ascender up as you describe)


(This post was edited by dugl33 on May 26, 2010, 10:42 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by dugl33 () on May 26, 2010, 10:42 AM


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