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Re: [aireq] How do the required skills and abilities for boulding change with increasing grades?:
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bustloose
Jul 20, 2010, 7:10 PM
Views: 2998
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
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the "it depends" answer is spot on.
the required skills don't change with the grade, they change with the boulder problem.
you simply cannot place more importance on technique or power at any point in the climbing curve. you can argue that with better technique you don't need to be as strong, but without the power to pull the move, it doesn't matter how good your technique is. this very topic has been argued over many beers and many campfires, and i'll bet it always reaches pretty similar conclusions. Power is nothing without control, and there is no substitute for pure power.
if you find that you are more of a technician, then you will naturally gravitate to the harder problems that require precise footwork and balance. if you find that you are getting very strong you will probably start to gravitate to the harder problems that require you to clamp down on little holds and yank.
i have climbed all manner of problems all across the grade range, on all types of rock, and i promise you there are problems for you to find at every level that will challenge parts of your skill set that are weak as well as problems that will seem easy "for the grade"
jomagam
In reply to: Just like there are no 5.15 slabs, I suspect there are few boulders over V10 that don't require tremendous strength.
now that is a sign of someone who hasn't seen much of the climbing world. There are in fact untold numbers of boulders over V10 that don't require tremendous strength. I have personally fallen off of at least 100 of them.
no 5.15 slabs eh? how about V13 slab (originally graded V14/15)
Banshousha:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KJ9PzHwEVo
(This post was edited by bustloose on Jul 20, 2010, 7:14 PM)
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Post edited by bustloose
() on Jul 20, 2010, 7:11 PM
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Post edited by bustloose
() on Jul 20, 2010, 7:14 PM
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