Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [rangerrob] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR: Edit Log




Partner rgold


Jul 27, 2010, 1:58 PM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: [rangerrob] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR
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rangerrob wrote:
Have you got about.......oh I don't know.......4 years to read it??? Rich has had a rather lengthy "trip".

Lengthy for 1967---I fell off either two or three times before I made it . After each fall, Jim McCarthy and I switched places, so we each fell off two or three times.

Total elapsed time from first attempt to success was probably a few hours, considering changing places and resting.

Soon after, Stannard changed the game to its modern formulation by making many attempts over multiple days on Foops and then Persistence. These immediately superseded Coex in terms of both conception and execution, and ushered in the modern age of climbing in the East.

Oddly enough, I did Foops with fewer falls then Coex and then onsighted Persistence, but that was several years later after we had all adapted to Stannard's visionary perspectives. Meanwhile, he was working on nuts-only-protected 5.12 by then and Jim and I were behind for good.


(This post was edited by rgold on Jul 27, 2010, 2:00 PM)



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Post edited by rgold () on Jul 27, 2010, 2:00 PM


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