Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [dagibbs] A weekend at the cottage...: Edit Log


Aug 3, 2010, 4:01 AM

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Re: [dagibbs] A weekend at the cottage...
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The Lazy Days of Summer

Thought I would check in with the Weekend Warriors, as it's been a while.

After a grueling travel week where I was in Lancaster PA, Seattle and NYC, I was eager to climb. We hadn't been to the gunks in two weeks, so I was "jonesing".

It was a beautiful weekend at the gunks (despite the forecast) and we spent Saturday in the Trapps. We arrived at West Trapps Lot at 11:30 AM and found a spot right up at the trail head. I seem to have "parking karma", I really wish I had lottery karma! Anyways, a very uneventful day climbing (the moderates) in the Trapps. We warmed up on the Bunny roof (we walked right up to Bunny, very unusual for the Uberfall), then climbed Red Cabbage Right. RCR is a very soft 10, a very easy "float" to the anchors. Did Bloody Bush for the first time in 3 years, it's a fun climb. P2 has a great little traverse adding some spiciness to the climb. I tried to get on Ken's, but every time we went to do it, someone was either TRing or just headed up. I forget what else we climbed, but, I know we finished on Horseman. I keep forgetting to the straight up variation, has anyone done it? (instead of doing the traverse) We climbed until 7:30 and then went to celebrate my birthday at Jen and Gavin's house. We were supposed to night climb, alas, as an "oldie" I was too tired to go out again. After an amazing sushi dinner, some very fun gifts, we released chinese wish lanterns into the night sky.

Sunday dawned early (after a 1AM bedtime) and MItch left for summer camp (Furniture School in Maine). I met Michael in the Nears. I could tell after I ran up Roseland that I was in for a tough day. Although totally fine, the moves felt harder than usual and I struggled wtih my feet. After Roseland we ran up Shitface, Transcon, Road Warrior, Birdland, Farewell to arms and To Be or Not to Be. We were completely alone in the nears due to the forecast (big storms), In fact, it started to rain, but, we waited it out. YOu could see it raining in NP, but the Nears was really dry. So, we waited while it sprinkled, then resumed our climbing. I was so sleepy all day, I could have fallen asleep while belaying.

Yesterday I took my friend Bett out. At 63, she decided to learn to lead. So we have dedicated several days this summer to Bett's leading. I have to say, she is doing a remarkable job. She is unflappable and manages to pick her way up the climbs. She lead both pitches of Easy O and then Three Pines to the GT ledge. I am impressed with her head, although she still needs to work on the consistency of her gear placements. It's always a joy to climb with her and to be a part of her progress.

Until next weekend...(headed to Atlanta and Lancaster this week).

(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 3, 2010, 4:18 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 3, 2010, 4:05 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 3, 2010, 4:18 AM

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