Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log


Aug 9, 2010, 11:34 AM

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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior
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Glad you are up and climbing again.

I spent Friday, Saturday and Sunday at the Gunks; three gorgeous days.

Friday I took Bett out for some leading, after studying the guide book I selected several 5.3 leads for Bett:
P1 Updraft, long corner climb, no route finding, a distinct crux, rings and slings on a tree for an anchor, plenty of opportunity for gear anchor as well
P1 Andrew, not great gear, but enough. Nice corner climbing, no route finding, rings and slings on a tree for an anchor
P1-P3 Easy V, Nice corner climb, Arrow bolts or plenty of opportunity for a gear anchor. P3 has a very different type of 5.3 crux, requires thoughful climbing.
P2 of Middle Earth.
Arrow...(For me)

Bett did an awesome job on every lead. She is easily cruising the threes and I think she can take on some fours. She is 65 years old and decided to start leading 6 weeks ago. She has an amazing lead head and I think she is a much better climber as a leader than a follower. We finished Friday's session on the third pitch of Bombs Away Dream Baby...a very cool 5.8, with less than adequate pro at the crux. YOu have pro about 4 feet below the crux, you have to get up to the crux (kind of tricky climbing) and then reaaaaach for the jug (for a shorty) and pull through the jugs to a stance before you can get in any more gear. It's dirty, but nice. I guess it's not done very often because of the lack of gear opportunities.

On Saturday we stayed in the Uberfall; it was PACKED! We started early:
1) Eyebrow, a meandering alpine like climb. So so, not great
2) Double Chin, tricky exit move at the top, harder than the 5.5 grade
3) Three laps up Restribution (clean)
4) Nosedive (would have been clean,but, I had a to clear a nut that the leader fell on...I needed two hands and a rock to pull the nut)
5) Apoplexy, easy run, but, I would never lead it (at least right now. Too much committment to get through the thin spots for me. Hell, I hate the start of Horseman!!!)
6) Fancy Idiot, this is an ok climb. NOthing special. Not worth doing.

We finished early, I wanted to be home in time for MItch to arrive from "summer camp" and go to the pig races at the Ulster COunty Fair. Turns out Mitch didn't get home until 7, we bolted through dinner and got to the fair just in time for the races. My pig lost and I didn't get a ribbon.

Mitch and I intended to get out of bed early on Sunday, but that didn't happen. We hit the cliff at 10 and we only had a 1/2 day to climb. I had to get home, my 21 year old daughter Emma was throwing a LARGE pool party at the house in Wayne and I was afraid the neighbors would call the police. Yes, they called and the police came. The police said "carry on" until the 9PM noise ordinance takes effect. Ha ha...the neighbors suck and they got NO satisfaction. The Band turned the speakers to the offending neighbor's house and played even louder.

We did easy peasy stuff:
1) Dennis
2) Belly Roll, would SOMEONE please tell me where to find the 5.4 move off the ledge? It always seems SOOO much harder to me. I have lead a couple of gunks 9s and this move feels harder!
3) Classic, I finally did the 2nd pitch's kind of fun. Juggy, happy climbing. Not sure why I missed that before.

Alas, we had to leave, but, Sunday was great and I really felt joyful as I's been a while since I felt that good.

(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 9, 2010, 11:41 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 9, 2010, 11:37 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 9, 2010, 11:39 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 9, 2010, 11:41 AM

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