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Re: [kennoyce] Nuts deep in a horizontal - avoiding edge loading of biner:
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milesenoell
Aug 17, 2010, 7:24 PM
Views: 14486
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
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kennoyce wrote: rsd212 wrote: Guess I need to re-read FOTH...also, any testing for cable-on-cable loading? Intuitively seems better than cable on nylon though. Haven't seen any testing on it, but there is no reason the cable would be weakened considerably (I'd guess not more than maybe 20%).
This is super armchair, but if Spectra gets about 30% strength loss from the sharp angles of girth-hitching (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...h%20spectra;#1473155), I'd think cable would be less flexible and should lose more.
rsd212 wrote: kennoyce wrote: I would clip an edge loaded biner before I would try attaching any kind of soft good directly to the wire with any type of knot/hitch. Seems like bad juju to me. Not too many tests of edge-loading. Youtube videos I found put it down around the same strength as girth-hitching with a sling, but seems like it would vary more, and edge loading on the gate may reduce the strength even more.
In reply to: Sorry if I wasn't clear enough, I'm certainly not advocating using an edge loaded biner. I'm only saying that if my only two options were to use an edge loaded biner or to girth hitch the wire, I wouldn't take the time to girth hitch the wire. I wouldn't want to fall on either though.
So you would just leave it?
rsd212 wrote: milesenoell wrote: Can you get nuts reslung on new cable? I don't know if I'd ever feel good about a non-factory swage, though. Can you resling a nut on new cable for less than $8 (cost of a new nut)?
In reply to: Yes, if you have the tools, it's less than a dollar.
Yeah, got (access to) the tools, but no way am I falling on one of my own swages. Most of them hold...
Edit: fixed cheesetit
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Aug 17, 2010, 7:25 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Aug 17, 2010, 7:25 PM
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Post edited by milesenoell
() on Aug 17, 2010, 7:25 PM
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