Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log




gblauer
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Aug 22, 2010, 6:12 PM

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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Warrior
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Rain Rain Go Away

I have to admit that I haven't said that very frequently this summer. My grass and plants are very happy to see the rain.

Mitch and I got to the cliff at noon on Saturday, the west trapps lot was full so we proceeeded to the stairmaster. I have to admit, I actually prefer the stairmaster, it's so much faster. We warmed up on all three pitches of Rusty Trifle and then I lead Trusty Rifle. Has anyone lead this climb? It's on the right end of the ledge where P2 of Rusty Trifle begins. You pull up to a small roof, then pull over the bulge at a very thin seam. It felt harder than a 7 and the gear through the crux was finicky, although available (think micronut in the seam). I was a bit sketched when I got through the crux and reached for what I thought was going to be a jug, NOT. It was a large clump of mud! I really had to hold it together to get to a decent stance and finally plug some gear (I felt like I was 20 feet above my micronut, in reality I was probably 6 feet). After that it was easy peasy to the GT ledge. Although I only had two slings left for 60 feet of climbing. Actually, I could have stopped at the first pine tree, but it was occupied by Steve (dad) and two of his kids (perry and clay, 13 and 9ish). It was fun to watch them climb together; the kids are going to be great climbers.

After my excitement on Trusty Rifle, we did Wrist. I have never lead P2 and I finally got my chance. Goodness that is one heck of a traverse for a 5.6! I wasted far too much energy trying the "high road" vs. the "low road" while enroute to the horn. I made it, but, I am sure that I was very comical to watch. I have to do it again and see if I can do it with better style. Anyone want to share some beta? I hear there is a trick, but, I sure didn't see one. Should I heel hook?

We got rained out today and tomorrow (forecast is for rain all night and showers tomorrow). So, I am adjusting my schedule and plan to head back up Thursday night and climb Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Guess I will be at the gym tomorrow. I have to start training for my trip to EPC in November.

Anyone want to go to Red Rocks Sept 9-12th?


(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 22, 2010, 6:48 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 22, 2010, 6:18 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 22, 2010, 6:48 PM


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