Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [lena_chita] Rumney ROCKS (aka aren't you glad I didn't go there for a whole month?!-- It's long, you have been warned!): Edit Log




lena_chita
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Aug 27, 2010, 9:17 AM

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Re: [lena_chita] Rumney ROCKS (aka aren't you glad I didn't go there for a whole month?!-- It's long, you have been warned!)
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Friday-Fried day.

The weather is gorgeous. The week has been very nice since Tuesday, but today it is supposed to be in mid 70s. Perfect. We start the day at a brisk pace. Continuing with the making Doc cry plan: Hippos on parade, 5.9—flash; Another 5.9, Lies and Propaganda-flash. The tears are supposedly coming in two huge rivers by now… 5.10a next, Reposession, the one that Jake tried to sell to me yesterday as an easy barefoot send. Hah, don’t believe him! It is HARD. I barely clip the anchors from a low hold, hugely grateful for pre-hung draws. Flash? Yeah, but not the one to be proud of. Then Jake points out the key crimp that he uses. Better, but still hard. I think I am fried…

My fingers loudly proclaim that the rest day on Thursday would have been very beneficial. I shut them up by trying the supposed 5.12c, The Payment Plan. It turns out to be pretty easy for the grade, even though it takes me a while to figure out the crux moves, and I use the nylon jug once. After coming down, I look in the guidebook. Oh, it is 5.12b, not .12c. That explains it! (RC database thinks that it is 5.12a, by the way—but that is too harsh!) Jake tries it next, and doesn’t seem to like it. Doesn’t seem to think that it is particularly easy, either… Weird? Up till now every 5.12 that he pointed me to was harder for me than it seemed for him. Are we onto something here?

We hike to Waimea next, and Jake tries Luau. I wimp out… it is beautiful, but don’t have another 5.12 in me today! That attitude lasts only until we hike to Jimmy Cliff, and I see another cool-looking line. Things as they are now Only 3 bolts! -- Yep, it is 5.12a. Maybe I have some energy left, after all… I try it. It doesn’t work out so well. I wow that from now on, if Jake says deadpoint in conjunction with any route name, I cross it off my list. Jake hangs the rope on it for a group of climbers climbing the 5.6 nearby at their request, and earns admiration from the crowd.

Two more routes quickly dispatched, 5.10c, Things As they Are, and 5.9--Things I Never Learned. We eat lunch and contemplate the rest of the day. Do two more unexceptional routes at Jimmy Cliff or walk to Upper Vader and do better-recommended routes? We opt for walking -- I mean, of course, down-climbing the approach trail, and then climbing up on the other trail...


Three Easy Pieces, 5.11a, goes down. Overhanging jughaul=FUN!


We leave the draws on the anchors b/c I’m going to do 5.10d next to it, Squall. That’s the plan, anyway… bad plan! I get owned, big time. “Short climbers will find the opening moves to be well in the 5.11 range”, advices the guidebook. I am willing to bet an arm on the fact that by ‘short climbers’ the author meant someone like Jake, and not someone like me. I know what ’5.11 range’ feels like, and trust me, this is not it. After a few frustrating attempts to grow, I winch up to the ‘starting handhold’ and start from a deadhang. NOW we are into '5.11 range!' Jake laughs at my pissed-off-chipmunk ravings and cleans the route, elegantly reaching for that starting hold. Time to call it a day.

It got really cold on Friday night. I was wearing a long-sleeved shirt and a jacket, sitting by the campfire… An early escape into the cozy tent and a warm sleeping bag was very welcome (this is AUGUST?), but Jake walked around for a long time, waiting for Kate to show up. I vaguely remember a lot of whining about the cold as he was stomping around... then I slept.


(This post was edited by lena_chita on Aug 27, 2010, 10:26 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by lena_chita (Moderator) on Aug 27, 2010, 9:25 AM
Post edited by lena_chita (Moderator) on Aug 27, 2010, 10:26 AM


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