Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [spikeddem] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log




ryanb


Aug 27, 2010, 11:22 AM

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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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Re: [spikeddem] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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1) throw up a draw, clip it and hang (optional depending on how good your stance is)

2) Take a doubled coradlet and "equalize" the two bolts leaving a burly HMS locker as your single power point.

3) Clip into this with your personal anchor sling and another locker clove hitched to the rope for redundancy. Depending on your comfort level, clip one of those directly to the cordalet for even more redundancy but fiddly belay changeovers (you will have to unweight the anchor to unclip it).

4) Adjust the cloved rope length to get in a comfortable position and take your shoes off. Edit: Anyone who has spent any amount of time doing hanging belays in a free climbing harness knows this step is crucial.

5) Clip your magic plate style device to the power point biner with another biner...make sure it is on the side where the rope will run the most free but don't stick the rope in it yet.

6) Pull up the tag line if you have one and stack it over your tether so it will run free.

7) Pull the lead rope up and lay it back and forth over your sling/cloved rope stacking it so that it will run free for the next lead belay.

7) When you get close to running out of rope put the rope in the device, give a couple of jerks and yell on belay. Your partner might not here you but will know you are at the belay because you pulled up the tag and gave the jerk.


(This post was edited by ryanb on Aug 27, 2010, 11:23 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ryanb () on Aug 27, 2010, 11:23 AM


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