Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log




blueeyedclimber


Aug 29, 2010, 3:48 PM

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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior
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Hey Gail, thanks for your hospitality this weekend. It was so nice having a quiet place to camp.

As for our weekend, we got on a bunch of climbs we had never done before. Saturday, we did Wasp (5.9), Falled on Account of Strain(5.10b), Art's Route (5.9), and Wedgetables (5.10a). All good routes. Tiff and I both took leader falls on Falled on account of Strain, Tiff on the first pitch and me on the 10b pitch. I usually onsite that grade but it's hard to find the exit move on the last roof. I went too far right and had to backtrack and take gear out when I realized I went too far. Meanwhile the pumpclock is ticking. It is STEEP! I realized that I might not have the energy to pull the final roof so I tried to down climb and fell. I had Tiff lower me back to the anchor, I untied, pulled the rope and then sent in style.

Today (Sunday) we had a lower key day. Tiff led Eastertime Too(5.8) and then I was going to do Elder Cleavage (5.10, 4 pitches), but the thought being at belay stations in today's sun was less than appealing. So I decided to try a hard single pitch. I settled on Criss (5.11a, my ass). I had been on it once before and I STILL can't do the crux move. I got up it (with a little cheating) and Tiff and I both toproped it. I still couldn't do it on f-ing toprope. After that we decided to do something that was recommended to us. A climb called Disney Point, a 5.10 variation to Disneyland. It was super fun. It was like a slightly harder version of the Dangler, complete with heel-hooking and great hand holds.

After that, we were exhausted and decided to call it a day.

Josh


(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Aug 29, 2010, 3:53 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by blueeyedclimber () on Aug 29, 2010, 3:53 PM


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