Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [angeleyes] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log


Aug 31, 2010, 2:09 PM

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Re: [angeleyes] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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angeleyes wrote:
shimanilami wrote:
I don't see the anchor setup being any different from a non-hanging belay, except that you don't have a ledge to use for self-positioning, so you have to use gravity as best as you can.

what about ways to avoid being in each others way when you're both at the hanging belay, w/o one person having to uncomfortably try to stay off to one side while the other climber sets up the rap and so on?

That's what the first paragraph that (s)he wrote addressed.

Personally, this is what I might see myself doing in a general situation: I'd put a quickdraw on each bolt, clip the bottom left carabiner (of the four carabiners with the two draws). Here if I am very pumped I can take. Once ready, I'd clove hitch the biner that I clipped, pull up a bit more slack and tie a fig8 on a bight and clip that into the top-right biner (my connection to the anchor is now redundant). After that I'd belay the second using a re-direct off the bottom right biner.

This avoids needing special equipment (daisy chain, pas, extra 2' slings). If I wanted a powerpoint, I could just tie a fig8 on a bight between my clove hitch (bottom left biner) and fig 8 (top right biner).

Once the climber arrives at the belay, they'll be sitting on the right biner, and I'll be sitting on the left biner. Seems about the best you could do for comfort given only bolts, draws, and a rope while you're at a hanging belay. It's not equalized, but it's redundant and extension should be minimal (and the rope is obviously dynamic) should one of the bolts fail. It sure seems to me that it is not possible to hang to one side AND be equalized on a hanging belay. If you want to split up the room at a hanging belay for comfort, you have to give up equalization. At least, that's how it seems to work in my head! Tongue Please correct me if I'm wrong, somebody.

Edit: That last bit assumes no gear other than rope, draws, and bolts. Also, it use as re-direct.

The side that you choose to start clipping stuff to while building your anchor would be determined by the side the other climber will be coming from while they're seconding, and which side they'll be going to once they're leading.

(This post was edited by spikeddem on Aug 31, 2010, 2:11 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Aug 31, 2010, 2:10 PM
Post edited by spikeddem () on Aug 31, 2010, 2:11 PM

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