Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [cal32] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Sep 7, 2010, 9:14 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [cal32] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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1. carry a 120cm sling, 1 big locker, and 2 locker/nonlocker with think profile

2. climb route

3. at time either ... a. clip into chains/bolt with yr daisy/pas ... b. put a draw in the bolt and clip it and ask for take if yr pumped

4. set up a sliding X with the sling and biners ... big locker on the bottom of course ... no need for limiter knots ... you are climbing on bomber bolts or should be ... i don't clip the chains

5. clove into big locker

6. bring partner up

7. if they are leading then they can just take off .... always put a draw in one of the bolts and clip it to prevent a FF2

8. if youre gonna lead again ... they just put a locker through the anchor and clove hitch to this ... you flip the rope stack over ... and they put you on belay ... put a draw through the bolt ... and start climbing

simple ... lol

you can use 2 draws if you forget the anchor material ... just fig 8 or clove the 2 draws you set up for belay ... this works if yr swapping leads ... if yr always leading though youll need to take off each knot/draw one at a time (youll be hanging from 1 unlocked point unless u use yr daisy too) as your partner sets up .... or anchor on the chains initially for yourself ... or hope the bolts are big enough for all your draws (4 alttogheter)

setting up a sliding x is much faster as your partner doesnt have to muk around setting up their own anchor with their draws ... they just clip in with their own locker and clove ... just remember that each person should have the slings and biners


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 7, 2010, 9:23 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 7, 2010, 9:22 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 7, 2010, 9:23 AM


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