Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [spikeddem] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log


Sep 7, 2010, 2:01 PM

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Re: [spikeddem] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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spikeddem wrote:

The methods mentioned previously using just the rope and draws are simpler and require less special material (120 cm sling, random lockers). It's also more redundant (a single 120 cm sling is not redundant).

Moreover, you say that there is no need for limiter knots, because the bolts are bomber. If you clip two bolts, you assume there is a chance of one of them failing (ignoring the overkill equalization factor). Yet, you say there is no need to tie limiter knots whose sole functions are to help out when a bolt fails.

Why the discrepancy?

the sliding X is not redundant only if the sling itself gets cut ... a single biner is not redundant ... but we use that for a belay ... a single rope is not redundant ... nor is the belay loop on your harness

the chances of any full strength part of your climbing system failing is basically zero ... which is why we dont all climb on double ropes

the chance of a bolt being rusted or being improperly put it is much greater than zero ... limiter knots are to limit the extention ...they actually reduce the strength of the sling to below full strength ... on 2 bolts the extention of a sliding X should not pull the other bolt ... if it does i recommend not climbing at all in that area ... lol

which is why we build our anchors of 2 bolts ...

a sliding X is faster to use unless your swapping leads all the time ... and it makes the belay a lot cleaner

(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 7, 2010, 2:05 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 7, 2010, 2:05 PM

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