Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [bearbreeder] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log




spikeddem


Sep 7, 2010, 3:22 PM

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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Re: [bearbreeder] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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I'll take this bit by bit.

bearbreeder wrote:
the sliding X is not redundant only if the sling itself gets cut ... a single biner is not redundant ... but we use that for a belay ... a single rope is not redundant ... nor is the belay loop on your harness

Nothing you listed except for "sliding x" (and, I suppose, a single rope) can be realistically cut by falling rock. At least the single rope method mentioned above offers a bit more protection or can if modified slightly.

In reply to:
the chances of any full strength part of your climbing system failing is basically zero ... which is why we dont all climb on double ropes

Failing under normal conditions, sure. Falling rock? You bet your ass a rope or a sling could get cut, especially under the tension of a hanging belay.

In reply to:
the chance of a bolt being rusted or being improperly put it is much greater than zero ... limiter knots are to limit the extention

I agree with you on the purpose of a limiter knot.

In reply to:
...they actually reduce the strength of the sling to below full strength ...

Yet, it is still plenty strong, so it does not matter.

In reply to:
on 2 bolts the extention of a sliding X should not pull the other bolt ... if it does i recommend not climbing at all in that area ... lol

Considering one of the two bolts just pulled, are you willing to bet your life (and your partner's life? or for that matter the life of anyone that takes your advice?) on your guess that, say, a factor two fall that just pulled out one bolt will not pull out the other one?

In reply to:
which is why we build our anchors of 2 bolts ...

I'm not arguing against using a minimum of two bolts for an anchor. I'm just asking why you think two bolts are necessary for the anchor while at the same time claiming that limiter knots are not necessary, citing the fact that the each individual bolt should be plenty strong.

In reply to:
a sliding X is faster to use unless your swapping leads all the time ... and it makes the belay a lot cleaner

I definitely disagree that it is either faster or cleaner given that someone was equally familiar with both methods.

Edit: You posted what I pasted right underneath this, and it seems to be where you are confused (at least when discussing the length of time the anchor takes). If you re-read what I and others have posted, you will see that it is not correct to say that the anchor must be taken down. With two draws there are four carabiners. This is plenty for two people to build two anchors without sharing sharing carabiners.

bearbreeder wrote:
you can use 2 draws if you forget the anchor material ... just fig 8 or clove the 2 draws you set up for belay ... this works if yr swapping leads ... if yr always leading though youll need to take off each knot/draw one at a time (youll be hanging from 1 unlocked point unless u use yr daisy too) as your partner sets up .... or anchor on the chains initially for yourself ... or hope the bolts are big enough for all your draws (4 alttogheter)

setting up a sliding x is much faster as your partner doesnt have to muk around setting up their own anchor with their draws ... they just clip in with their own locker and clove ... just remember that each person should have the slings and biners


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Sep 7, 2010, 3:29 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Sep 7, 2010, 3:29 PM


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