Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [bearbreeder] Good ways to setup hanging belay: Edit Log




spikeddem


Sep 7, 2010, 5:20 PM

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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [bearbreeder] Good ways to setup hanging belay
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bearbreeder wrote:
So yr arguin that a sliding x is not acceptable on bolts? Lol

I'm saying there are better and faster ways of accomplishing the same goal. IF someone does insist on using a sliding x for an anchor, then in my humble opinion they should use limiter knots. Limiter knots would not only limit extension, they would also make a large portion of the sling redundant.

In reply to:
i think u need to take a basic anchor course .... The only real problem with a sliding x is the extention on trad gear

Given that one bolt has already pulled, how much can you trust the other one? Moreover, it is not only an extension issue, but a redundancy issue, too. Extension becomes an issue when one bolt has already pulled, and redundancy (of the sling) is an issue when someone is at the anchor belaying (e.g., rock fall).

In reply to:
if theres rockfall its WAY more likely to cut a 60 m rope than a 1.2 m sling at the belay

This would only be true if the 60 meter rope were under tension, which it is not when the leader is climbing.

In reply to:
not only is a proper anchor setup faster on 2 bolts where there are no chains ... It creates less of a cluster fcuk ... And is more flexible

I agree, I just think the anchors mentioned previously using just the rope are proper, and in comparison, yours is not. Laugh Your method is not faster, it is not less of a clusterfuck, it is not more flexible, and it does not meet the criteria the OP mentioned of allowing each person to being out of the other's way at the belay. It also requires gear that would not otherwise be carried.

In reply to:
you can use 2 draws ... But how are you guys going to clip 2 bolts with 4 draws unless the bolt holea are alwaya big enough... Or figure out the sequence of who ties in when with 2 draws

Two draws means four carabiners. I didn't say anything about using four draws. To figure out the sequence of who ties in when...perhaps you could read my original posts.

Edit: Clarity.


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Sep 7, 2010, 5:24 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Sep 7, 2010, 5:21 PM
Post edited by spikeddem () on Sep 7, 2010, 5:23 PM
Post edited by spikeddem () on Sep 7, 2010, 5:24 PM


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