Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [jt512] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks: Edit Log


Sep 24, 2010, 9:58 AM

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Registered: Mar 11, 2002
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Re: [jt512] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks
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jt512 wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
Saw this at, biner with deep groove cuts a rope after a lead fall at the first bolt.

Well, that's an eye opener.

It is bizarre that the report goes into great detail about the quickdraw, but never mentions the brand, age, and condition of the rope.

As bad as that carabiner looks, there are a lot of biners out there just like that one. It seems a little strange that accidents like this have not happened more often. It'll be interesting to see if the investigators can reproduce the results.


Not really debating anything said in the above quote...

My wife took a relatively small lead fall onto a biner that looked very similar to that one at Maple Canyon. Our rope was less than one week old and the sheath was cut to the core. The sheath was not completely severed and the core was undamaged, but it required us to chop our brand new rope down 15' or so, that sucked.

Since then I have payed more attention to the fixed biners we are clipping and have found there are a lot of nasty sharply worn ones out there. The scenario that seems to lead to this kind of wear is a biner that is not fallen on or lowered on often and is under tension when a climber is lowered. This can be a draw that is shorter than than rest on a steep route, or a draw far off the plum line. Biners at the crux often have deep grooves worn in them but usually have softer edges. By extending fixed draws that are prone to this kind of wear, I think some of it can be mitigated.

(This post was edited by bigo on Sep 24, 2010, 10:07 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bigo () on Sep 24, 2010, 10:07 AM

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