Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [redlude97] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks: Edit Log


Sep 24, 2010, 10:23 AM

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Registered: Feb 23, 2010
Posts: 36

Re: [redlude97] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks
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I've been predicting this occurence for a long time now and I'm glad it happened at the first bolt. Two things to be aware of here in addition to the obvious.

1. Watch out for fixed biners that incorporate an "I beam" or 'T-beam' type design in the bar stock. I don't know what they officially call this but many lightweight carabiners use it to shave weight. Petzl Spirits too. As they wear they carve into the thin section of metal and create a super sharp edge. This doesn't happen as severely on roundish bar stock carabiners like the BD hotwires or even standard ovals.

2. The most dangerous fixed carabiners are the first bolt and oftentimes biners that protect an easy section where no one ever falls or lowers. What happens is that the rope runs through the biner almost parallel to the rope bearing surface. The wear causes a flatness instead of a U shaped wear pattern. Very sharp.

I'm speculating but this accident was caused by three things. The flat worn edge due to the rope running parallel to the rope bearing surface, The carabiner being forged from 'T-stock' and finally, the hard fall generated when falling with a small amount of rope out.

I've gotten in the habit of roping up at the Red with 4 or 5 quicks even for fixed draw routes. Clipping my own when I see this stuff. These biners are EVERYWHERE! Seriously, be very careful.

(This post was edited by newrivermike on Sep 24, 2010, 10:27 AM)

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Post edited by newrivermike () on Sep 24, 2010, 10:27 AM

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