Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [socalclimber] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks: Edit Log


Sep 25, 2010, 4:37 AM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: [socalclimber] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks
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Well I read that earlier in the thread. I still have a number of issues with this. First off, Mike clearly stated that he will carry extra draws with him due to the very problem that caused this accident. He even goes on to say that these time bombs are everywhere and knew this was gonna happen to someone eventually.

This tells me Mike has a functioning brain. For god sakes, I've cleaned and replaced old copper heads that were in better condition than either of those two biners. What astounds me is that nobody has bothered to fix the problem and continued to climb on them anyway.

If I ever came upon a "fixed" biner in that condition, especially straight off the deck, I promise you, I wouldn't just clip it. I'd be off that thing in a heart beat or placing my own piece if I could.

Those two pictures are with out question the worst examples of wear I have seen in a caribiner in 20 years of climbing.

I have absolutely no problems with the analysis and conclusions of why and how the wear occurs. The high fall factor due to the first bolt on the route, or that the belayer is standing a bit back from the route. This is all well and good. Majid is 100% correct. Rule #1 in climbing is NEVER BLINDLY TRUST FIXED GEAR. INSPECT IT. I don't care what it is, fixed pin, fixed draw, stuck cam, whatever.

How anybody could not have noticed that biner is beyond me. If this is the accepted norm and practices at popular sport climbing areas, be rest assured I won't be going near them any time soon.

I can only imagine what some of the bolt hangers must look like. I would suggest some of the locals get on the phone to the ASCA and get new hangers and gear and start replacing these things. At the very least, people should be noting these time bombs on the web sites and gear stores near by. Nomads has a note book for bad bolts. Locals take a gander at it and replace the offending gear. If we can do it with 7000+ routes in the park, then it should be doable in other areas.

The truth is, complacency is what lead to this accident.

(This post was edited by socalclimber on Sep 25, 2010, 4:45 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by socalclimber () on Sep 25, 2010, 4:38 AM
Post edited by socalclimber () on Sep 25, 2010, 4:45 AM

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