Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [socalclimber] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks: Edit Log


Sep 25, 2010, 9:23 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [socalclimber] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks
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socalclimber wrote:
I'm not talking about breaking the biner. I talking about sharp edges cutting the rope which appears to be the case here. I'm still having a problem that anybody cannot tell that the biner in question had the potential for causing a big problem.

Question: Does this biner have a sharp edge?

In reply to:
You can dress this up with all the excuses you want. If this is the state of the union with regards to sport climbing, then there is a real problem.

Really? How many accidents have there ever been in sport climbing due to poor judgment about the gear? Compare that number to the number of climbers who have decked at J Tree alone due to poor judgment about the gear during just the last few years.

In reply to:
There is no excuse based on how rad, bitch'n and cool sport climbing is.

Huh? What are you smoking?

In reply to:
That biner has bad shit written all over it.

And the one pictured above? Does it?

In reply to:
What part do you not understand here? First bolt. High fall factor. Badly worn biner with sharp edges.

What part do you not understand? I'll tell you: the part where the typical sport climber has seen thousands of biners that look just like that and are perfectly safe. Until now, (almost) no one (including me) had any reason to believe that a worn biner could cut a rope. And it's not like we haven't thought about it. I've examined scores of worn biners and have never found any of them to have a sharp edge that could cut a rope.

In reply to:
Rope cut.

20/20 hindsight.

In reply to:
Simple, I see gear like that, I'm not trusting my life to it.

Fair enough. But for every piece of gear like that you refuse to use you'll be refusing to use probably thousands that are perfectly safe. You just don't seem to get that until now well-considered opinion was that worn biners (which are routine in sport climbing) would not cut a rope or break. This is the only incident in the decades-old history of sport climbing that I am aware of where a biner has completely severed a rope. That's a pretty good track record, and I would bet that you take far greater risks on a routine basis trad climbing than you would by trusting every worn biner you ever came across on a sport climb.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 25, 2010, 9:27 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Sep 25, 2010, 9:27 PM

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