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Climbing Information:
Technique & Training:
Training crimp technique (Not strength):
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jason
Oct 8, 2010, 9:06 AM
Views: 10395
Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 37
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When we learn an instrument such as the guitar, or in my case the mandolin and bass, we work through a phase of teaching our hands the muscle memory of a specific chord by doing correctly, but slowly, and gradually building up speed so long as the precision of the movement remains intact.
So how does this relate to climbing? Over the years I've developed a respectable ammount of crimp strength, but when doing hard, powerful dead points to bad crimps, I often either fail, or end up in the open crimp position. This feels a little more desperate (and dangerous) than immediately latching the hold in the closed crimp position.
I'm considering focusing a good deal of my time on simply latching holds accurately and quickly in a controlled setting where I won't be pulling a move off of them. I'm hoping this will isolate, and refine the technique and muscle memory, while crimp strength alone can still be trained on a hang board.
Has anyone tried this? I'm an experienced climber, but feel this is one of my weaknesses that I would like to work on. I feel like just climbing has trained me to hit the hold then adjust, but assuming I'm in control, and not just flailing to the next hold, and stress loading my fingers, I would like to streamline my movements.
Before someone responds to train open hand and use open hand... Imagine a big move to a bad crimp. You could stick it open, but the next move involves a low lock off from that hold (crimp) so it would be best just to hit it right the first time and not waste time and energy adjusting.
BTW:
I'm sure the Self-Coached climber has something sorta relative to this, but as I've said before, I can't get it here. I even talked to the foreign book store here, and they can't even order it.
(This post was edited by jason on Oct 8, 2010, 9:13 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jason
() on Oct 8, 2010, 9:07 AM
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Post edited by jason
() on Oct 8, 2010, 9:13 AM: BTW
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