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Re: [jason] Training crimp technique (Not strength):
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brijoel
Oct 8, 2010, 2:12 PM
Views: 10273
Registered: Dec 28, 2006
Posts: 31
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Is your question, "Is it worth it to spend time practicing hitting a hold immediately putting your hand in crimp position?" There's nothing "more dangerous" about hitting the hold open handed. It's much better to load the fingers that way and convert. And, if you're flailing about during or after sticking the hold, it is not the crimp "technique" that's the problem - it's the rest of your climbing technique that's getting you to that hold, or the amount of finger strength you have to steady yourself once you hit it. This might just be me, but I don't think I ever hit something when dead pointing to a crimp without at least some adjustment into a full crimp position post loading the fingers open/open crimp. If you're flailing on powerful static movement, that's most certainly an "everything else" issue. I suppose my question in response to your question is, are you positive the rest of your climbing technique is so clean that 1-2 seconds to convert to a crimp is the problem?
(This post was edited by brijoel on Oct 8, 2010, 2:16 PM)
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Post edited by brijoel
() on Oct 8, 2010, 2:16 PM
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