Forums: Suggestions & Feedback: Re: [Tstef] Suggestions for Climbing Dictionary: Edit Log


Oct 24, 2010, 1:37 PM

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Re: [Tstef] Suggestions for Climbing Dictionary
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Adventure climbing - see Traditional climbing

Aiding - see Aid climbing

Aid points - n. Gear attached to the rock from which to hang when aid climbing.

Arm bar - n./v. A forearm jammed across a wide crack using a camming effect in order to make progress.

Artificial climbing - see Aid climbing

Autoblock - n./v. A prusik used as a one-way clutch or pulley. Used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. a.k.a. French prusik or "Machard" prusik.

French prusik - see Autoblock

Machard prusik - see Autoblock

Clipstick - see Stick Clip

Commitment, level of - n. A term used to define how hard a climb is.

Cow's tail - n. A sling girth-hitched onto the harness attachment point.

Dynamic rope - n. A rope that stretches to absorb impact, vital for lead climbing.

Egyptian move - n. The dropped knee technique but without twisting the body, allowing the feet to push in opposition even if using vertical holds. Is sometimes the only way that either hand can be freed up.

Escaping the system - v. Transferring the weight of a hanging climber directly to the anchor, so that the belayer can move away to solve a problem.

Extender - see Quickdraw

Gouttes d'eau - n. pl. fr. Pockets in the rock caused by water erosion.

Grade - n. An approximate measure of the technical difficulty of a climb.

G-Tox - n./v. A method of shaking out the arms which utilizes gravity to shorten muscle recovery time.

Impact force - n. The maximum force affecting the climber and anchors as a falling climber is brought to a halt. The faster the deceleration, the greater the impact force.

Kleimheist hitch - n. A versatile prusik hitch that can be tied using cord or webbing. Allows a climber to ascend or descend a fixed climbing rope, particularly in an emergency situation. Easier to slide on a fixed rope than a normal prusik.

Knee bar - n./v. Similar to an arm bar but using either the thigh bone or the lower leg cammed across a wide crack.

Left-right diagonal - n. Combination of, for example, right hand and left foot on holds to give a strong braced through body tension. Particularly effective on steep rock.

Locking off/Lock-off - v./n. A powerful holding position in which one elbow is fully contracted, allowing the other arm to reach out for a hold. Limits the amount of reach available.

Pacing - n./v. A fundamental way of conserving energy by varying the speed of movement according to the angle of the rock.

Rack - n. The set of protection equipment used for a climb.2

Ripples - n. pl. Undulations in a slab surface that may allow the feet to gain a hold through friction.

RP - n. A Specialized brass micro-nut manufactured in Australia.

RURPs - n. pl. Tiny postage-stamp-sized blades used as fixed equipment - Realized Ultimate Reality Pitons.

Sharp end - n. slang The lead (top) end of a rope when lead climbing.

SLCD - Abbreviation for Spring-Loaded Camming Device - a mechanical protection device that is often simply called a cam.

Spotting - v./n. A way of reducing the hazard for unroped climbers. One or more people shield a climber from a bad landing with their hands.

START - n. acronym A simple way to create a safe belay - Simple, Tested, Angle, Reliance, Tensioned.

Static move - n. A slow reach for a hold, the opposite of a dynamic move which involves "slapping" or even jumping for a hold.

Static rope - n. A nonelastic rope, useful for situations other than lead climbing.

Stitch plate - n. A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a single or, more commonly, a pair of slots, often used generically.

Twist-lock - n./v. A lock-off in which the body is turned to face the hold. Often combined with turning the hips at right angles to the rock by using the outside edge of the opposite foot. Allows a considerably greater reach.

Undercut - see Undercling

Weighting (the rope) - v./n. Resting by hanging on the belay rope. Not allowed in a a clean ascent.

(This post was edited by Tstef on Oct 24, 2010, 1:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by Tstef () on Oct 24, 2010, 1:42 PM
Post edited by Tstef () on Oct 24, 2010, 1:53 PM
Post edited by Tstef () on Oct 24, 2010, 1:54 PM

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