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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [ptlong2] Clipping the rope:
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malcolm777b
Oct 25, 2010, 7:09 PM
Views: 12310
Registered: Jun 9, 2009
Posts: 204
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ptlong2 wrote: malcolm777b wrote: I am assuming that he is not unclipping the daisy from the piece/aider. If he isn't, he better be clipping SOMETHING, either the rope or a draw to the aider, or his aider and piece are most likely gone if the piece rips. We were talking about the rope being clipped. If he's clipped in short to a loop or a draw, or the piece is above him and the daisy is tight, or he has unclipped his daisy from the piece, then no daisy fall. On some aid some people don't even use daisies. Your conclusion is only true for some techniques and sequences.
In reply to: In reply to: And no, I am not assuming that the piece is above his waist. He can be top stepped, or sub-top stepped (ie. piece below waist) and still take a daisy fall. You were assuming the piece is above his waist in your first case, where the piece he's on rips. You said "longer fall from extra rope out". That's only true if he clips above his waist.
I must freely admit that I don't usually consider sequences that don't use daisy chains because it seems like too much risk of dropping aiders, or losing an aider clipped to the piece if you fail a bounce test. The sequence where you clip a daisy, then unclip after the bounce test, then clip the rope to the piece seems like too many steps to move efficiently (plus the downside of added fall distance before you're above the piece).
(This post was edited by malcolm777b on Oct 25, 2010, 7:12 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by malcolm777b
() on Oct 25, 2010, 7:12 PM
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