Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [esander4] Additions to rack?: Edit Log




Colinhoglund


Nov 7, 2010, 4:57 PM

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Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 338

Re: [esander4] Additions to rack?
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esander4 wrote:
Hello, I'm new to the rock climbing forums. I was just wondering if any of you trad climbers could give me any additions they think would be good for my rack. I started tradding about a year ago, and finally getting a decent rack. I climb mostly in Poudre Canyon, Colorado/Estes Park, Colorado and Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sometimes at Golden Cliffs in Colorado. Here's the rack:

#0 Metolius Ultralight TCU
#1 Metolius MasterCam
#2 Metolius Fat Cam
#3 Metolius Power Cam
#4 Metolius TCU
#5 Metolius Fat Cam
#1 Wild Country Tech Friend
#1.5 Wild Country Tech Friend (older models of 1 and 1.5 friends, family cams passed from father to son, recently reslung)
#7 Trango Flex Cam
#.75 Black Diamond Camalot (older style, another family cam)
#1 Black Diamond c4 Camalot
#2 Black Diamond c4 Camalot
#3 Black Diamond c4 Camalot
#6 Black Diamond c4 Camalot
A range of BD nuts and hexes (about 25 of them)
2 60 cm Metolius Nylon Slings
2 120 cm Metolius Nylon Slings
15 BD quicksilver quickdraws (dogbones replaced with various sizes of Petzl dogbones)

And then the basics, Mammut harness, 2 60m New England Equinox ropes, lots of non-locking and locking carabiners, 2 belay devices and assortments of sizes of 1 inch webbing.


Any suggestions for add ons to the rack? I went trad climbing last week and felt like I didn't have enough gear for more than a 60 ft or so pitch. I usually climb what most people do in 4-5 pitches, and it takes me 8-9 pitches and a lot more time. I'm trying to add a little gear to avoid this, but i don't know what.

Hummm. . . You have quite the "standard rack", most people could do most things with that rack (not withstanding places like the creek). Either one of two things. Your areas may need a larger amount of certain sizes. If so, take note of what your running out of and get more of those. That failing, get more creative with placements. Think 'what are the easy pieces to place for this route" and try to place every other size first.

Or . . . you need to start placing less gear per pitch. Place less when there is a clean fall or not cruxy. When I look back at how I protected a route, I often see more gear at the crux and much less elsewhere. Think about placing less but better pieces. Id rather have a A+ piece every 8' then a C- every 4'. Hope that helps.


(This post was edited by Colinhoglund on Nov 7, 2010, 4:57 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Colinhoglund () on Nov 7, 2010, 4:57 PM


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