Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [brianinslc] Fatal fall on Solar Slab - Red Rocks: Edit Log


Dec 1, 2010, 1:31 PM

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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [brianinslc] Fatal fall on Solar Slab - Red Rocks
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Brianinslc, I probably speak for JH as well here. I wasn't advocating adding bolts to anything. I was advocating that locals examine the idea of adding....or not. One is only looking at it, the other is doing it. They are different things. I'm not suggesting you guys add a bolt to anything. Look closely and seriously at it is all.

Back a ways in time, I was right by a guy who ripped 3 or 4 pieces and died in front of his loved ones on equally soft Smith Rock welded tuff. Once we'd finished CPR when a ER Dr showed up and pronounced him dead, I would have added a bolt right then and there with no discussion had I thought it would have done any good for the next time. It's true that I mused on it for a week. However, the young man died where pro can be normally found. That being pumped out, he didn't find the placements, or having found them he still had many of his pieces pull (having gotten off route and chosen to fall, rather than down climb) was a series of bad choices not many others would ever make on this location. Sure it was possible it could happen again, but that's part of the game, to work on the mental issues involved. That one of those pieces that had failed for this guy had actually held 2 earlier falls he'd taken on it lower down was also an anomaly probably not to be seen again.

For this Friar thing: until folks actually figure out what happened, exactly where, and exactly why..the discussion of adding any bolts is premature. I was basing my thought that folks should look at it because Vegastradguy is pretty savvy, from what he says about the serious nature of a line like this: and in addition to the potential of getting more overflow tourists starting to be hitting on it when the nearby classic lines get busy.

If a single bolt could make a clean 50 foot ledge fall become a 40 foot clean (but otherwise still terrifying with some bad scraping and massive pants filling) fall, then it's worth examining and doing. If this is just one of those things like I posted above, then let it go and it stays as is.

It is worth examining. Wish all the best.

From Mountainproject:
In reply to:
For the record she was a very cautious climber. We all know people who are super cautious, Heather fit that category. She was capable of sending 5.12 when she was on her game.

(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Dec 1, 2010, 1:42 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by billcoe_ () on Dec 1, 2010, 1:42 PM

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