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Re: [miklaw] Why are Ubolts so weak, or aren't they?:
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USnavy
Jan 3, 2011, 9:21 AM
Views: 7329
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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miklaw wrote: This post was mainly to quash the weird info about weak Ubolts that we see a lot of... Wider spacings tend to be slightly weaker and much uglier, in downwards load it is because the unit is relatively more flexible and the top hole gets more load and fails earlier. In outwards mode the legs pull together and crush soft rock, hard rock might be slightly better in this regard
I disagree about the larger spacing’s being uglier, I think they look nicer. But regardless there is something far more important. It’s a pretty safe bet to say U bolts are adequately strong in any type of rock when properly installed. In every test I have ever seen U bolts exceed UIAA strength requirements in even the softest of climbable sandstone so there is really only one other parameter that must be considered.
U bolts are plagued for their tendency to enable a quickdraw to unclip itself if the gate on the bolt side biner is facing the direction in which the climber is climbing. Although I have never seen a U bolt come unclipped while someone was climbing, I have been able to unclip one myself through controlled flicks of the rope, thus I know it’s possible for them to come unclipped. Well the wider bolt spacing helps alleviate this issue. The smaller leg spacing makes it easier for the draw to come unclipped.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 3, 2011, 9:23 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Jan 3, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Post edited by USnavy
() on Jan 3, 2011, 9:23 AM
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