Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice: Re: [fresh] belaying off ice screw(s): Edit Log




shoo


Jan 3, 2011, 7:19 AM

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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501

Re: [fresh] belaying off ice screw(s)
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fresh wrote:
I could also place the screws vertically, and belay off the lower screw. that would prevent extension if the bottom screw ripped.

I typically try to offset my screws when using them as an anchor, setting them in a diagonal line rather than side-by-side or vertical. I don't like side-by-side since ice often fractures horizontally, and I don't like vertical since it adds some clustering and forces you to put 2 screws on the exact same feature.

Edit: Dammit, rangerrob said that already. Apparently, the ridiculous amount of money I have spent on my education still hasn't taught me how to read.


(This post was edited by shoo on Jan 3, 2011, 7:32 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by shoo () on Jan 3, 2011, 7:31 AM
Post edited by shoo () on Jan 3, 2011, 7:32 AM
Post edited by shoo () on Jan 3, 2011, 7:32 AM


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