Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [blueeyedclimber] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition: Edit Log


Jan 3, 2011, 3:58 PM

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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

There is no such thing as "AUTO-PILOT" switch in climbing.

Everything must be manually check and recheck by pilot and co-pilot before takeoff

Instead of passing judgment, how about offering your own stories. There is no climber alive that hasn't done something stupid (except maybe Jay).

Here's two that come to mind:
1) First time in Red Rocks, first route. My partner had been there before so gave me the first lead. We were in Black Velvet Canyon and the higher profile climbs were occupied, so we decided on Sour Mash. In all my excitement, I tied in chalked up and headed up on lead.......without the rack. I didn't notice until reaching for the first piece. I down climbed back to the base, grabbed the rack, and headed back up, a little red-faced. The climbing was pretty easy to start so I wasn't in any danger, just a little embarrassed.

2) Rappelling off a route. I "ALWAYS" attach my rappel device and THEN attach my backup. For some reason, one time, I put my backup on first. I guess in my mind I was all set to go, since I had just put my backup on. It was hot, I was tired, I wasn't thinking. I went to lean back on it when Tiff stopped me.

NO ONE is above mistakes. You can say "It won't happen to me" until you're blue in the face, but guess what....being human is well, part of being a human.


I done stupid thing and I am no different than anyone else however, I am probably more aware of fuc*ups than most climbers (thanks to reading thousands of accident reports and documenting what went wrong) but I also learned that we need to have pre-flight check list like how pilots do it every time both before they takeoff or land. I am an ex airplane mechanic and we check, recheck and triple check everything we put together and practicing of checking twice and cutting once has saved me in so many situations. As an instructor who deals with climbers and rescuers, I personally can not effort any fuc*ups. An error, injuries or death when my name or organization's reputation is involved means death . I always say this; everything is against us in climbing and any error means trouble if not death so best thing we have to defend ourselves against close calls is the safety check list and we have to do religiously.

we can talk BS all day long here and post and joke about our fuc*ups but out there, climbing is a serious business and we need to treat our safety like how we did in the beginning.

Remember those days........fig 8 check ?, belay check ? on belay ? belay on, climbing ? climb on .....

(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 3, 2011, 3:59 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jan 3, 2011, 3:59 PM

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