Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice: Re: [sandstone] belaying off ice screw(s): Edit Log




skiclimb


Jan 6, 2011, 11:37 PM

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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1936

Re: [sandstone] belaying off ice screw(s)
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egads ..what are they teaching kids these days..


if talking about placed pro of any type..

I generally find any anchor with less than three good equalized points .. at best..less than desirable..

ice dirt rock snow..whatever

2 at least..cmon isn't this basic?


1 is better than none of course but hot damn i'm nervous even if i know a truck shouldn't blow the piece.. yeah i've repelled on a single good nut ..once.. i knew it was ok..but still gave me the heebie jeebies.. V-threads ain't my favorite either..but done several of those..still in the back of my mind...

Am I comfortable with two good screws EQUALIZED in good ice.. definately..I might think that a third screw would make a better anchor but probably not really worthwhile or necessary.

2 screws not equalized??...wtf why waste time making your anchor that way... I certainly wouldn't belay of a two point unequalized anchor..ok I have belayed a second with worse anchors.. hell even NO anchor.. but sure as hell don't recommend it usually


belaying off a single screw?? better be some gnarly ass epic alpine journal baddass of a climb before i'd think that was worth the risk. Or maybe something very low angle.. Cause if thats the only anchor i could come up with i'd recommend saying fuckit and rapping off .

I've broken all these self imposed rules here and there from time to time... but always with full knowledge that i'm taking a risk and never as a general rule.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jan 6, 2011, 11:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:45 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:47 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:50 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:53 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:57 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Jan 6, 2011, 11:59 PM


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