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Re: [sef239] Finger strength, most common climbing limitation?:
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ceebo
Jan 15, 2011, 3:17 PM
Views: 16861
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
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No, finger strength is by no means the only limiting factor. I use to climb far to much verticle crimp style routes, super static. On those i was starting to flash 7b's. It was not untill i started venturing into other styles of climbing that i realised how bad i was. On overhangs for example.. i had all the finger strength i possibly needed for atleast 8a's.. but i lacked, and still lack the strength in shoulders and the dynamic skills to be efficiant on such routes. Its also mostly wrong to associate small holds with increasing difficulty. Some of the hardest routes i have ever tried had holds bigger than my feet. With smaller holds your able to open hand or even crimp and just lock off your fingers. Once you get good at these they are extreemy good holds to climb on, The harder holds are the ones where you need to squeeze with an opposing thumb.. that requires direct force to be applied from the 4 arms and finger tendons to keep enough friction on the hold or you slip off. It takes far greater force to sustain a grip on such holds than it does on a crimp. Slopers are probably a better example though.. their the most easy holds on your fingers.. but by far the mot hardest routes to climb. Some of those holds you can actually sit on. Btw, v4 is a very decent grade for how long you have climbed. It's probably too hard actually.. and you may allready be starting off injurys that will build over the coming months, then fuck you over on a difficult crux move. Try and resist going past that grade for the first year, and just see how well your body respond's to it.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jan 15, 2011, 4:36 PM)
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Post edited by ceebo
() on Jan 15, 2011, 3:21 PM
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Post edited by ceebo
() on Jan 15, 2011, 3:22 PM
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Post edited by ceebo
() on Jan 15, 2011, 4:36 PM
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