Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [jt512] Testing a "Dynamic Belay": Edit Log




Carnage


Jan 26, 2011, 8:53 AM

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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923

Re: [jt512] Testing a "Dynamic Belay"
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My assumptions and their backing:

Cinch vs grigri: they both lock on the rope quickly, and in most cases don't let the rope slip (i know the cinch slips under high FF, if we want to test that, go for it, i'm trying to minimize the test cases) I think most people thing of the gri-gri and cinch as interchangeable when they're talking about dynamic vs non-dynamic belays

"inch or two of slippage" when i catch a fall on an ATC my brake had is typically gripping the rope less than 5-6 inches from the device both before and after a fall. The max distance that my hand would be down the rope is in the 1.5 feet range (again, approx). Given the fact that i dont notice much slippage, and how much rope is in play elsewhere in the fall, i'm hypothesizing that there is very little slippage in a typical fall. I'd like to test this hypothesis as well. I'm sure it will be a function of force, but what would the typical and worst case scenarios be?

edit to add: when i said dont post your opinions, i meant i dont care about answers like "i never belay trad with a grigri cause its bad" if you have a valid claim to backup your statement, let me hear it, but the main objective would be to provide test cases for an experiment.


(This post was edited by Carnage on Jan 26, 2011, 8:55 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Carnage () on Jan 26, 2011, 8:55 AM


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